Although unmistakably a pueblo blanco, Jimena de la Frontera is in many ways not so typical of the villages that cling to mountain-edges in the southwest Serranía de Ronda. Firstly, it does follow the trend of being built on safe high ground that rises steeply towards a castle-topped hill, but although they’re undulating the surroundings of Jimena are not exactly precipitous – and it doesn’t require a hair-raising drive to get here. For those who love the calm, quaint and typically Andalusian atmosphere of a white village, but don’t relish seesawing through roadrunner territory, it is an ideal combination.

In fact, reaching this pretty little town is part of the pleasure, as you follow gentle gradients through green valleys and attractive farmland before you reach this white dot on the edge of the mighty Alcornocales nature reserve. The first point of contact is Estación Jimena, the younger cousin of the original village and the product of an industrialising age. Established on flat land at the end of the 19th century, it developed around the railway station, surrounded by agriculture and agri-business.

The real thing
With its steep, cobbled streets, intimate squares and amazing array of charming little houses and churches, Jimena de la Frontera is compact but pretty. Its atmosphere is authentically rural, this being a truly agricultural area, so although there are plenty of little inns and hotels Jimena is not the kind of place where busloads of camera-wielding tourists are offloaded on a regular basis. For visitors, though, it’s a pleasure to pick your way through a delightful array of alleyways, steps and terraced allotments that back on to sweet little cottages.

A small number of foreigners have started doing them up to live in, but generally it is those who enjoy Andalusian life the authentic way who come to settle in these parts. What attracts them is that Jimena is still wonderfully free of Irish theme bars and McDonalds. This is a place where you see kids kicking a ball in a square as old men gather to chat, ladies stop to gossip while on some domestic errand, and entire families congregate on the terrace of a local restaurant.

Still largely agrarian and in many ways more traditional than other white villages, Jimena de la Frontera is popular for all the right reasons – not least of which is the beautiful open scenery of the Alcornocales, with its rare pinsapo trees, endless cork and pine groves and beautiful valleys, gorges and mountain peaks. It is within this setting that visitors come from far to pick sought-after varieties of wild mushrooms in guided tours. Another popular activity is deer spotting during the rutting season in autumn, when groups of villagers and visitors picnic in the country in the hope of catching sight of the mighty stags or hearing their distinctive call. Just the kind of eccentricity you’d expect from a village in the midst of a natural paradise.

The spread of properties in this peaceful, and in parts gated residential area, range from brand new to rustic, from very large and opulent to more modest proportions, and from ultramodern architectural styling to more traditional looks. The tranquil streets are low on traffic but lead directly to a local commercial centre that includes a supermarket, a small collection of shops and offices, and some restaurants and cafés. An iconic part of this centre is the German bakery, which has become a reference point in the area, while there are also two health and rackets clubs that offer tennis, padel tennis, swimming pools, gym, pilates and café/restaurants, as well as providing a social hub for the area.

The latter is also the case at the Marbella Golf Club, whose stylish clubhouse features a fine dining restaurant with lovely views over the course, a pro shop, golf academy, elegant lounge areas and facilities for conferencing, launches and social functions. Nearby are also the courses of Santa Clara Golf and Greenlife Golf, the latter of which houses the very highly rated gourmet restaurant El Lago.

A larger shopping centre can be found at Elviria, a few kilometres eastwards, with a liberal sprinkling of restaurants, cafés, lounge bars, and also beach clubs in between. The famous Nikki Beach forms the beach club of the five-star Don Carlos Hotel, but you can also opt for a more down to earth experience at the many chiringuitos (beach cabana bars) that dot the coast here. This area is favoured with some of the best sandy beaches in the Marbella area, and though primarily a laid-back sun-soaked suburb with its focus set firmly on the sea, El Rosario also has a very good spread of schools, clinics and other professional services on its doorstep. These include The English International College, the German School and the Costa del Sol Hospital – all within a few kilometres.

Though offering suburban peace, tranquillity and privacy with open views of the sea and surrounding mountains, this area east of Marbella is also conveniently close to the heart of town and all its services and diversions – making El Rosario one of the classic Marbella-style suburban areas.

The town is perched rather dramatically on a flat rocky outcrop that is raised above the surroundings, the better to enjoy magnificent views over a paradisiacal landscape of lush pastures and mountainous layers that stretch all the way to where the sun dips into the horizon. This open window to a panoramic countryside brings the surroundings into the town, ensuring this burgeoning town of 50,000 people never forgets its rural roots.

For those who wish to live in the real Andalucía, surrounded by nature and the true pulse of Spanish life, Ronda offers a wonderful compromise that also brings style, culture and sophistication to the mix. What’s more, the beaches and modern diversions of the Costa del Sol are less than an hour distant, yet those who choose to live here can access them at will whilst enjoying the pleasures of a more traditional and peaceful environment.

Though Ronda itself offers charming areas and wonderful properties to buy and/or restore, most people who choose this region opt for country properties in the villages and farming areas surrounding the town. The setting can vary from the verdant farming valley around Ronda to the pastures and traditional Andalusian white villages that radiate further outwards, but the town remains a common focal point.

This means that you can enjoy living on the outskirts of a picturesque village or opt for a luxury country villa whilst still having the shops, restaurants and quaint quarters of Ronda within close range. Some of the most popular houses are little rustic properties or large country homes on spacious tracts of private land, many of which lend themselves to refurbishment projects.

Besides the natural scenery, outdoor lifestyle and peace and privacy that such a setting offers, many also set up rural bed and breakfasts or boutique hotels, or use their land to indulge in interests such as horse riding or quad biking. Quite a few of the country properties come with features such as stables, private water sources and classic rural architectural features, though most also have the mod cons you would expect in the city.

With nature reserves, vineyards and lots of history all around it is understandable that the region is so popular with those who wish to seek a life in the sun that is all about enjoying nature and a more authentic Spanish lifestyle. Living in and around Ronda you have the added advantage of being in a surprisingly sophisticated area that is also close to the coast and its facilities: in other words, a pretty enticing mix of ingredients.

When La Mairena’s developer, Gabriel Massoud, first came to Marbella over 30 years ago, it was still a little fishing village frequented by an international jet set. He was quick to realise that things would not always stay this way, and that the demand for land, property and recreational facilities in and around Marbella would gradually convert it into the bustling and growing town that it is today. Gabriel envisaged a time when people would want to live in a peaceful, natural setting, away from the crowds yet within easy reach of Marbella’s diversions and services.

With this in mind, he bought 2 million square metres of hillside covered in cork and pine trees just a few kilometres outside Marbella. Others have had similar ideas, but most such areas are either too remote or have since been absorbed into urban zones, leaving La Mairena as one of the very few places that offers the comfort and services of an exclusive residential area near Marbella, combined with the peace, tranquillity and beautiful natural surroundings of the countryside. Add the magnificent views that take in the gentle slope down to Marbella and the sea, the mountains inland, and eastward views across the New Golf Valley to the nightlights of Fuengirola, and you have a very pleasant environment indeed.

It is in this setting that La Mairena was developed as a residential area of private villas and small apartment blocks that offers residents attractively-designed Andalusian and Mediterranean style properties in a manner that makes the most of the beautiful natural surroundings. Trees are a very important part of this, keeping the area cool in summer, visually softening construction and providing a cherished environment full of the fragrance of citrus and pine. Though tucked into the foothills of the Sierra Alpujata, at 300 metres altitude, it is just a five-minute drive from the Elviria exit on the CN340 coastal highway that runs across the length of the Costa del Sol. From La Mairena, a wide road winds its way gently down through open countryside to the pine-covered residential area of Elviria, with its Spanish and international schools, shops, restaurants, cafés, banks and professional services.

The best beaches, with attending beach bars, in the Marbella area are ten minutes from La Mairena, with the centre of Marbella another five minutes further. The area is also home to trendy beach clubs such as Nikki Beach, as well as a choice of five-star hotels and top-notch golf courses, yet facilitated by its own tennis centre, private school and a small commercial centre, there is no need to leave the peace and comfort of La Mairena itself.

As you stroll through the steeply inclined cobblestone streets and look at the white-plastered houses hugging the cliff, you might wonder why people would choose this scenic but rather difficult terrain to build on over the rich green valleys sprawled below. The answer lies in the coastline, and more specifically the distant shores of North Africa, from where Barbary Corsairs set sale on voyages of rape and pillage that terrorised much of the Mediterranean and were a match even for the feared Viking raids of the North.

Many of those caught unawares would end up in the slave markets of North Africa, so the people of this region learned to seek protection from these and other marauding bands even before the conquering armies of Rome or Islam arrived in this part of Southern Spain. The result is a tapestry of white villages shining brightly against a backdrop of greenery and blue skies. With its characteristic cluster of houses straddling a little saddle between rising hills, Casares is considered one of the finest of all white villages, and has duly received UNESCO World Heritage status.

A dense maze of streets cuts through the mass of houses that back up to the hilltop castle, in olden days the last refuge for townspeople. Today, it is above all a scenic point from which Casares’ uniquely panoramic position can be truly appreciated. Look down and you see green valleys far below, succeeded by a rocky landscape that stretches towards the coastal towns of Manilva and Sabinillas, and is now a protected natural area. Long sandy beaches mark the shoreline, which is dotted with hotels and holiday homes, while across the blue expanse the heights of North Africa rise up, with Gibraltar seemingly floating like an island between two continents.

Just around the corner, in the inland direction, is the threshold to a mountainous landscape of jagged ranges, deeply cut valleys and raging streams. Within this beautiful wilderness are farming communities and the white dots of pueblos blancos that sit like sentinels atop accessible peaks visible from far away. Next stop from here is Gaucín, another popular and pretty mountain village, and like Casares a favourite of artists, tourists and foreign residents.

Leaving the bucket-and-spade brigade behind, the more inquisitively minded visitors to this part of Southern Spain happily seek out towns like Casares, drawn by the exoticism of its history, architecture and ambience. They walk the steep streets and gather at the main square, enjoying coffee and tapas in a quintessentially Andalusian setting. While many artists, Spanish and foreign, have made their home in quaintly renovated village houses, the majority of the foreign residents live in rustic villas on the outskirts of Casares – an area that offers not only a good choice of properties of different sizes, but also space, privacy, fantastic views, natural beauty and proximity to both village life and the facilities of the Costa del Sol.

To say that Miguel Tobal has helped to shape Marbella is certainly no overstatement, though the architect is quick to point out that he has always focused on quality rather than quantity. “Over the years we have had the good fortune of being involved in a wide range of projects, from small to larger scale, yet our main focus has always been designing individual homes for private owners,” says Miguel.

It is a specialisation that continues to this day, though currently they work on both new-built villas and refurbishments. “What we’re seeing at the moment is that increasingly people seek out the best locations, and since this often leads them to the more exclusive established areas it means buying an existing property. In such a case their focus is more on the quality of the plot, in terms of location and orientation, than the property itself.”

In a lot of cases the homes in question are antiquated and the value, certainly the desirability, of the land has outgrown that of the structure it houses. “The buyer will then have to decide whether he or she wants to refurbish or rebuild from scratch,” adds Diego Tobal. “Normally it is easier and cheaper to demolish and start from a blank canvas, and unless there is great character or another form of intrinsic value to the old property that is exactly what happens.”

Changing demands
Another reason why homes are rebuilt or updated is because those constructed before the mid/late 90s watershed, struggle to provide the amenities demanded by modern lifestyles. “The homes built up to the 1990s were charming but bear little resemblance to the way they are constructed today,” says Diego. “To start with they were conceived very much as summer homes, with little in the way of heat and sound insulation, technical infrastructure and modern refinement.”

“Properties, maintenance and energy were relatively cheap, and lifestyles very different from now. These days, homeowners demand much higher technical standards, a long list of facilities such as climate control, under floor heating, telecommunications, home entertainment systems and advanced automated management systems that can control anything from the sprinklers to security and remote video access.”

Along with higher levels of comfort comes an increased focus on design. “Design has become more accessible and important as people travel more and are exposed to more diverse cultural and visual references,” says Diego. “What people expect from an architect now is not the same as it was years ago, and indeed, many want us to create signature design elements that reflect their personality and lifestyle, yet within a specified budget and without making the property so idiosyncratic that it becomes unsaleable.”

A turning point in design and development
Asked if they believe the crazy years of the boom will ever return, both father and son instinctively say: ‘hopefully not’. Diego explains, “We’re at a turning point in Marbella. Years ago everything was white, homes were built on a moderate scale, albeit with the limitations described above, and Marbella had a true identity. Then came the boom and the town lost its way a little, with short-term thinking leading to increasingly mass-produced construction and often highly forgettable design. Now things are gradually getting back to normal and I see the next phase of development in Marbella coming in the form of a revitalisation of existing spaces such as its beachfront and town centre.”

“It is the mark of an increasingly mature market and we’re seeing the early signs of it in the rebuilding and refurbishment of villas on prime plots. I believe the emphasis will be more on this kind of redevelopment and less on expansion on virgin soil. Not only will it revitalise Marbella but it should also mean that new developments will become less volume-based and more focused on providing niche value.”

Asked what this newly-evolving Marbella will look like they laugh and say, “Fortunately there are as many architects as there are projects to design, so as always there will be a mix of styles and treatments, but I think modern lines, glass and lots of white will feature prominently.” We’re all agreed that white is by and large the ideal colour for Marbella. “Yes, it’s clean, fresh, modern, practical in this climate and also maintains a link with the cultural heritage of this region.” Speaking of which, should all structures yield before this new wave? “No, a community naturally selects what it wants to retain and nurture, and what needs renewing, with market forces providing the mechanics, but all the same, Marbella has a great opportunity to create a really exciting visual identity in the coming years.”

www.tobal.net

Covering a total area of just over 200km2, the Sierra de las Nieves National Park extends northwards from Marbella towards Ronda, and forms one of the most untouched parts of the mountainous interior that is known collectively as the Serranía de Ronda. Essentially this is a rugged, mountainous region cut by deep valleys and dressed with the cover of forest. It is probably because of its inaccessibility that this particular area has been largely sheltered from human activity, be it modern development or even earlier agricultural settlement. Indeed, with the exception of some lonely hovels and isolated pastoralists this was a largely uninhabited paradise where nature and wildlife could thrive – and continue to do so today.

A land of highwaymen
Those who lived here eked out a tough existence, but the harsh terrain and shortage of prying eyes also made the Sierra de las Nieves a perfect hideaway for the Bandoleros, the highwaymen that roamed large parts of Andalucía in the 19th century. Knowing that the Guardia Civil could not venture into this region easily, it became one of their favoured hideouts, and a base from which they planned their raids and the tormenting of the authorities in which they so delighted. Even here the idea of settling down in villages and cottages was too dangerous for these mountain men, so they searched for the large caves that gave them not only shelter but were also practically invisible to outsiders.

In that sense the Sierra de las Nieves seems to have been made for these erstwhile bandits, for it is dotted with an abundance of caves and potholes – including some of the largest and deepest in all of Europe. Even if the king’s forces could make their way unnoticed into the steeply angled landscape, they would still find it hard to encounter the bandoleros, much less surprise them. Add to this an abundance of game and small plots that can easily be hidden within thick forest, and you have the makings of paradise for a hardy people whose main wish was to remain out of the reach of human civilisation.

A natural preserve
It is these conditions that have made the Sierra de las Nieves a safe abode for small groups of people all the way back to the Stone Age. Artefacts from that era have been found in the system of caves, indicating that early man was as much attracted by the rough shelter and abundant game as the later bandoleros, but on the whole it is fair to say that this is one of the most untouched regions on the European mainland. It’s tendency to be snow-capped, so close to the balmy Mediterranean coastline, is explained by altitudes that reach 1909 metres at Mount Torrecilla, the highest peak in the natural park. Not only is the air thinner and colder at this altitude, but the mountains also form part of the chain that acts as a barrier sheltering Marbella and the coastline from the cold winds that blow from the interior plains of Spain.

In winter this often leads to spectacular snow-covered scenery that you would not believe existed so close to the swimming pools and palm trees of the Costa del Sol. In summer, the mountain belt also keeps the dry, hot air from the interior out, yet these conditions – combined with the lack of human interference – are just right for a wide variety of fauna and flora. Indigenous trees such as the pine, fir, ash, chestnut, wild olive, cork oak and juniper, dominate a countryside that is home to mountain goats, muflon, doe deer, mongoose, badgers and also a rich variety of birdlife that includes eagles, vultures and the royal owl. Declared a National Hunting Reserve in 1970 and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1995, the Sierra de las Nieves is as pristine a natural environment as you are likely to find in Europe, complete with thriving indigenous fauna and flora, as well as low-key recreational activities such as horse-riding, mountaineering and potholing for those with a penchant for nature’s bounty.

One of the jewels in the crown is the Museo Automovilistico de Málaga, the automobile museum opened in September last year. Although not situated in the city centre, where most of Málaga’s cultural venues can be found, the museum is housed in the beautiful former tobacco factory, with its classical façade and almost palatial stature. Long neglected, the ‘Tabacalera’ has been restored to its former glory and is once again an attraction in its own right, set close to the seaside boulevard that runs along the beach from the port to the centre of town.

Inland from here is a lively and interesting suburb called Huelin, so you won’t be hard-put to find a café, tapas bar or sun-soaked terrace nearby, or indeed a beach bar, if you plan to make a day of it. Occupying the left wing of the imposing tobacco factory, the museum impresses as soon as you enter it, displaying vehicular artwork in the form of car lights mounted on a chassis to resemble a classic car or some outlandish contraption. Lovers of the real thing will also not be disappointed, for the museum’s collection of almost 90 cars covers the very dawn of the motor car right up to the present day.

Built around the private collection of a Portuguese gentleman João Manuel Magalhães, who added to an initial collection started by his father, the museum’s Panhard Levasseurs, Rolls Royces, Mercedes, Auto Unions, Delahayes, Ferraris, Isotta Fraschinis and Packards, to name a few, are all in immaculate condition. Beautifully presented, this is already more than enough to get the heart of any car lover or nostalgic historian fluttering, but the Málaga car museum is somewhat unusual in how stylishly it depicts the various eras in which the vehicles were conceived and used, employing art, fashion and historical annotations in settings that not only take you on a journey through the past century and a quarter, but actually make you feel like you’re there.

It all starts with the early contraptions of the Victorian era, moves on to the increasingly pretty Renaults, Daimlers and Panhards of the Belle Epoque, and then enters the dynamism and turmoil of 20s and 30s Art Deco, when some of the most beautiful designs were crafted by the likes of Rolls Royce, Duesenberg, Bugatti and Mercedes. Displayed as the works of art that they are, these beauties will have you gasping, but note that amongst them are also more notoriously famous vehicles, such as the Mercedes 540K used by Heinrich Himmler and the Lancia Italia favoured by Mussolini.

This placing of the cars within the context of their times is a particular success of the museum, embellished by posters, artwork, occasional furniture pieces and props such as classic skis, luggage and golf clubs, and even a fashion and luxury hat display that is a fine collection of its own, boasting pieces by all the greats of the day, including Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga.

From the aristocrats, tycoons, gangsters and dictators of the 1930s you move into the post-war era, and a new revolution in design and technology. Slowly the Delages and Armstrong Siddeleys fade into the background, making way for a new generation of Maseratis, Lamborghinis, Alfa Romeos, Aston Martins, Jaguars and Ferraris that were to become the objects of desire in the 1950s and 1960s. From the gloom of war you step into an era of Dolce Vita, a highpoint in design and good living, before the charming design follies of 70s Buicks and Cadillacs bring back a nostalgic note of their own, and before you know it you’re looking at the cars of a modern era that bring you right up to the present moment.

Among the wackier of these are a ‘Flower Power’ Rolls Royce from 1966, inspired by the famous roller of John Lennon, a crazy Excalibur replica sports car such as the ones owned by Arnold Schwarzenegger and Sylvester Stallone, and a 1985 Swarovsky Rolls Royce covered in the kind of bling that would have many a rapper or wag drooling with delight. The tour concludes with a collection of exotic cars and prototypes from throughout the automobile’s history, set alongside a wonderful collection of art in the form of engine blocks masterfully painted to resemble ceramics, steel and a variety of other materials and artistic styles. Before you leave, stop to admire the modern-day hotrods and racing cars designed and made by the skilled team of engineers who also maintain the 90-odd vehicles with such care and attention.

Although it features one of the most important private collections of classic cars in the world, the Málaga car museum is an experience that will appeal to an audience far beyond just those who love cars, fine design and masterful craftsmanship.

Open Tuesday to Sunday (10am to 7pm). Normal tickets €6, €3 for seniors over 65 and children under 6, and €4,50 for students

http://www.museoautomovilmalaga.com/

From anywhere along the coastal strip occupied by towns such as Marbella and Estepona you will see mountain ranges running roughly parallel to the shore. In some places they diminish to mere hills, but there are places where the mountainous sierras that separate the coastal region from the interior suddenly surge to produce majestic peaks. One such peak is La Concha, the towering mountain that overlooks Marbella and shields it from the soaring summer blasts and icy winter winds of the North.

La Concha, The Shell in Spanish, is so called because its shape resembles that of a huge seashell. Rising from almost sea level to 1,215 metres, it forms part of the Sierra de la Nieves (Snow Mountains) nature reserve that extends northwards from here and covers around 20,000 hectares of unspoiled and protected nature. Though parts of this reserve are hard to get to, the mountainous area immediately surrounding La Concha is a popular hiker’s destination that features one of the best-used routes in Andalucía.

Hiking near Marbella
It takes minutes to reach the beach, under an hour to make it to the surf at Tarifa, and a little over two hours to stand on the ski slopes of the Sierra Nevada, but La Concha’s hiking trails are less than half an hour removed from the town centre. Follow the signs to La Cañada, Marbella’s large modern shopping complex, then head inland in the direction of the little white town of Ojen, just five minutes away. Skirting Ojen you’ll come to a signpost on the left side of the road that reads Refugio de Juanar.

Follow a winding mountain road for another ten minutes and a good dirt road for 100 metres to a car park from which you’ll have to continue on foot. Having reached the starting point, the Refugio de Juanar, there is a choice of four different routes.

• Mirador del Corzo – a rather straightforward 500-metre stroll to a panoramic viewpoint for those who want to enjoy stunning vistas of the surroundings without walking too much
• Mirador del Macho Montès – an only slightly more adventurous 1,3 kilometre trail through a pine grove that culminates in a viewpoint with wonderful views down to Marbella and the coast
• The Juanar Mountain Peak Route – from here on things get more serious, as this route takes you to the first peak and an even more spectacular panorama of Marbella and surroundings will take moderately fit people about an hour each way
• The La Concha Route – designed for serious hikers, this is a steeper trail that takes you to the top of the Juanar and then along the ridge to the top of La Concha Mountain. Count on 2.5 hours each way – and fantastic views, including Marbella, Puerto Banus and the large Istán reservoir on the northwest side of Marbella. On a clear day you’ll be able to see the entire sweep of the coast to Gibraltar, with Africa sticking out beyond.

Tucked away amongst lush semi-tropical gardens the properties in this area enjoy an opulent form of seclusion and privacy, but one combined with stunning vistas and an easy, direct route to Puerto Banús, Marbella town and a selection of golf courses on its doorstep.

Small, discreet and very exclusive, Cascada de Camojan is an area dominated by impressive villas set on large plots with sprawling grounds. Among these are some of the most imposing mansions on the Costa del Sol – complete with some of the most impressive panoramas in the entire region. Not surprisingly build densities are low, with space and greenery abundant. Quiet cul-de-sacs enhance the sense of tranquillity and privacy, with roads that exclusively serve local residents.

Apart from a few early isolated estates the greater part of the community was developed from the 1990s onwards, as demand for Marbella property pushed luxury residential development into the foothills and the elevated plots with their panoramic qualities became highly sought after. Today the area is largely consolidated, with just a small number of plots remaining – reinforcing the status of Cascada de Camojan as one of Marbella’s most distinguished and exclusive high-end areas.